Sugarcane, 20-09-2008

At a loss for what to do for dinner on a Saturday night, and hearing good things about the newly opened modern Asian place just down the road, we decided to give Sugarcane a ring. No worries – we were in with a table a couple of hours later.

The menu leans towards the south and east of Asia, with particular emphasis on Malay, Thai and Viet dining. There was a good choice of fresh, tangy salads like this salmon and green pawpaw dish, ordered by T:

The wagyu beef rendang curry is apparently one of the most popular dishes on the menu and was met with approval by dining companion C:

My choice was the Vietnamese-influenced pork hock and green mango salad, below. The pork was deliciously crispy, a great contrast to the tart mango slivers. I’d have preferred if there had been less of the zingy dressing and more of the cashew nut garnish, but otherwise this was a very nice dish.

However M. didn’t fare so well with this eggplant and prawn dish, which had a lot more chili than she expected. Tasty, she said, but overwhelming. (This particular dish was marked as having chili, but even those without did include at least a little, so if you’re not into spiciness be forewarned.)

Situated in a single dim-lit room on a quiet street near Central Station, Sugarcane isn’t exactly brimming with atmosphere. But don’t be put off by the muzak and the spooky wall fixtures. This is a great new addition to the inner city food scene, somewhere you can sit down and have a nice meal without being overly formal. Good value, too.

Food: 3.5 spoons
Service: 3 spoons
Atmosphere: 3 spoons
Overall: 3.5 spoons

Booking? On the night.

Sugarcane, 40 Reservoir Street, Surry Hills 2010
02 9281 1788

Billy Kwong, 15-09-2008

The restaurant arm of celeb chef Kylie Kwong‘s ever expanding foodie empire is a modest shopfront on a quiet stretch of Crown Street, just a door or two away from the equally famous Bill’s.

Billy Kwong doesn’t take bookings and I’ve heard stories of Saturday night queues of up to 30 people lined up for half an hour or more before the restaurant’s opening time of 6pm. However, on the Monday night we walked past there was no crowd, no waiting. We strolled in, impromptu, and were greeted by smiling staff.

First up were steamed prawn wontons. I, uh. I have a terrible memory so all I can say about this is delicious. (My photos are also pretty terrible so I’ll keep them small.)

Next, sung choi bao with pork, ginger and mushrooms. This was as messy as it wasdelicious. Sauce everywhere! Before the next dish, the staff swooped in to replace all our plates and cutlery.

The main was my favourite dish of the night – roasted eggplant with seared prawns, in a chilli and coriander dressing. It smelled and looked so good the couple at the table next to us couldn’t resist leaning over to have a bit of a gander. Tasty and fresh and zingy with flavour, I swear I am hungry again just thinking about this.

For contemporary Chinese fine dining, this is it in Sydney. It’s reflected in the bill, which is likely to be $50 or more per head. However the ‘no booking’ policy and the cramped seating seem a bit incongruous, given both the high demand and the high prices. Definitely recommended, but just be prepared to come early or on a school night.

Food: 4 spoons
Service: 4 spoons
Atmosphere: 3 spoons
Overall: 4 spoons

Booking? There is one table for 6-8 people that can be reserved each night, otherwise it’s first come first served.

Billy Kwong, Shop 3, 355 Crown Street, Surry Hills 2010

AL.