The restaurant arm of celeb chef Kylie Kwong‘s ever expanding foodie empire is a modest shopfront on a quiet stretch of Crown Street, just a door or two away from the equally famous Bill’s.
Billy Kwong doesn’t take bookings and I’ve heard stories of Saturday night queues of up to 30 people lined up for half an hour or more before the restaurant’s opening time of 6pm. However, on the Monday night we walked past there was no crowd, no waiting. We strolled in, impromptu, and were greeted by smiling staff.
First up were steamed prawn wontons. I, uh. I have a terrible memory so all I can say about this is delicious. (My photos are also pretty terrible so I’ll keep them small.)
Next, sung choi bao with pork, ginger and mushrooms. This was as messy as it wasdelicious. Sauce everywhere! Before the next dish, the staff swooped in to replace all our plates and cutlery.
The main was my favourite dish of the night – roasted eggplant with seared prawns, in a chilli and coriander dressing. It smelled and looked so good the couple at the table next to us couldn’t resist leaning over to have a bit of a gander. Tasty and fresh and zingy with flavour, I swear I am hungry again just thinking about this.
For contemporary Chinese fine dining, this is it in Sydney. It’s reflected in the bill, which is likely to be $50 or more per head. However the ‘no booking’ policy and the cramped seating seem a bit incongruous, given both the high demand and the high prices. Definitely recommended, but just be prepared to come early or on a school night.
Food: 4 spoons
Service: 4 spoons
Atmosphere: 3 spoons
Overall: 4 spoons
Booking? There is one table for 6-8 people that can be reserved each night, otherwise it’s first come first served.
Billy Kwong, Shop 3, 355 Crown Street, Surry Hills 2010
AL.
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